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So, minus the pleats (which will remove ~5.75 from the waist circumference), I would end up at my desired 28 waist

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In their Survey of Historic Costume (1998), authors Phyllis Tortora and Keith Eubank state that there were variations in the way that the chiton was styled, which was often achieved by belting the chiton at any of several locations, by creating and manipulating a fold over the top of the fabric and by varying the placement of the pins at the shoulder (53)